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Raw or jpg? Brightness

now almost all cameras offer the ability to save photos in the classic format is jpg or in raw but what is the difference?

The jpg is a compressed format to save the images so that they occupy little space and is born when the memory available to users were small and expensive.

The raw is an uncompressed format that takes up much space but offers many advantages over jpg.

Firstly, it should be clear what is meant by compression of a file that could be confused with the zip-compressed files for example.

jpg When we talk about is how we speak mp3 music, both are files that take up little space, but to achieve this have to lose information.

To be more clear I do the example of a camera with 10 megapixel sensor, the raw file of this machine is great about 18Mb and the same photo in jpg will have a weight of about 5Mb . As you can see the difference is huge and all that is missing is information that was lost that can not be retrieved later.

Personally I choose depending on the size of the photo shoot, for photos that do not interest me much, those made without pretensions or just a memory I choose to have quietly while the jpg for pictures or for important pictures shooting in raw only. The reason is simple, are derived from a raw file and much more information can be recovered much more photos, you can go for example to retrieve a wrong white balance or adjust lights and shadows with precision.

The downside is that the same memory card shooting in RAW I can not save many photos but let's be honest, when we go out and we have 400 shots are already too plentiful.

To make a parallel with the analog raw as we could see the film negatives and prints as a jpg.

One thing to consider is that the raw format is not natively supported by the pc, however, be converted in jpg, slowly but are solving this problem in the computer is hard to abandon one in favor of a standard more. Bear in mind that shooting in RAW will fill your hard drive very quickly and it is advised to take into account buy an external images only to be lighter on your computer. I for example, when shooting in raw end of the day I find myself with 4-5Giga of photographs, I find myself once a month and the laptop's hard disk so I had full armarmi external disk large capacity and also much more reliable as a long life .

As always, these are personal choices, evaluated and then proceed as you like because the raw is not vital, just as well you shoot in jpg and not normally notice the differences between the two formats.

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objective, and practical considerations such

In a previous speech I talked about the brightness of the objectives and the F number that indicates we are using the diaphragm. To summarize in a few words f indicates the aperture, the smaller the number, and more light will pass by allowing a gap between the foreground and background.

Here are some shots that I did and I think that explains everything better than a thousand words, the order of the aperture used is as follows: f2-f4-f5.6-f8-f11-f16-f22. As you will notice that the number will grow to change the image, what is said is that as the number f also increases the exposure time because less light passing through the goal we must increase the time of installation, then you must use a tripod if available light is low.

f2

f4

f5.6

f8

f11

f16

f22

As you can see the blur varies greatly between a light and a dark lens, be aware that targets low-end usually start from f3.5-f4 and then you can understand that with these lenses can do many things but not, for example portraits that highlight the face and not the rest unless you work in the studio with the appropriate backgrounds. The downside is that the bright lenses are expensive and therefore should be evaluated well spending in relation to the future use. Another issue to consider is that the lower the f-number the greater the chance to miss the focus, instead of the flower if there was a face with f2 I can focus the eye lashes and do not degrade the picture, so to speak .

Another thing to keep in mind is that most of the objectives to make the most of f5.6 in the sense that this value the lens aperture can resolve details as to the best values \u200b\u200blower or higher tends to lose a bit of punch, but this is a general discussion because there are lenses that do not suffer from this problem like the one I used for these shots.

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Computer programs and ... essential?

With film there was no escape, the photographer was like a sniper, a stroke center, or wasting the film at his disposal. Today the photographers are gunners, shooting hundreds of shots as the memory cards are nice and roomy in the crowd something good always jumps out. Apart from the perverse logic of consumerism that is the basis of this reasoning is a fact that today the photographers are no longer such, today we have "Clickomania", people who repeatedly pressed the shutter button and then throw the PC to improve everything.
not get me wrong, the computer certainly has the opportunity to make even more beautiful a good photo but it sure can not make something beautiful indecent for example the frame.
I think the photo should be treated as a darkroom, you can make changes on contrasts, on saturation, but little more. But today there are many programs for editing photos, from free ones to those very expensive and powerful, but we need?
I PhotoShop, Photo by definition the program but do not ever open, why?
Simply because the thousands of transactions I can perform more work by graphic photographs.
but I use the elementary complete software package that is part of Windows Live can be downloaded from here: http://explore.live.com/windows-live-essentials?os=other does it offer? Everything you need for a photographer today and for free, something that never hurts. This program allows you to go to act on the lights, the shadows, crop and straighten a photo in addition to many other features but not in use. For Apple users but there is iPhoto, a program similar to that offered by Microsoft and that in itself is enough to make corrections ethically right of the photo.
One thing must be said, if you spend more time to rework your shots than they used to do it ... then you need to revise the way you work because you are weak-side photo.
Let me explain.
If you pay attention during shooting in ' the best frame the subject, if the exposure and be careful if you have the mastery of your camera you can take your memory card and send to print the photos without going through the PC.
I have gained experience with the expensive film at that time and I guarantee you that the fact of finding themselves after a bad photo shoot was a great motivator for improvement. Today I suggest you do the same thing to those who want to learn how to photograph, take your camera, put into a small memory, which contains 100 pictures, then sent out to photograph and print photos without regard to the PC.
I think is the best way to learn to shoot by snipers and not by machine-gun.

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Image Stabiliser

What is the stabilizer image? The question may seem trivial but in fact many believe that the stabilizer in some way to prevent blurring due to subject centered and instead just goes to prevent small fluctuations due to the hand of those who are photographing.

There are two types of image stabilizer, or on the lens or camera body, which is better between the two?

I personally think that at the final result is equivalent, but I find the fact of having the image stabilizer in the camera body will bring many benefits, let's see some. A body-stabilized makes any stabilized lens you mount on the lens and allows you to have lighter and less expensive than those which incorporate the stabilizer. For example, if you buy a Canon or Nikon and go see their telephoto lenses you'll find that on average larger, more expensive and heavier than the equivalent focal length covered by such optical Sony, Olympus or Pentax mount because the latter makes the image stabilizer in the body.

The stabilizer has benefits in two cases, the first is whether we are using telephoto lenses with which even small fluctuations are amplified in our hand and the second when we photograph low light because the stabilizer is designed to increase the shutter speed without needing to go with the iso.

Surely you can not live without stabilizer, but also because it lacks a convenience that allows you to take home a lot more photos and many more situations?

The downside of this feature is the battery consumption that rises enough so it is better to switch off when not in use, there is usually a menu or a button dedicated to this. Please note that with the wide-angle lens in good light your shutter speed should be such to render unnecessary the stabilizer and then you can keep it off.

One thing to remember is to always turn it off if you use a tripod! Yes, because if the stabilizer is useful in your hand can do the exact opposite on a stable, why? Simply because the gyro stabilizer move thousands of times per second and if built on a solid base of generated micro moved that it can not compensate for their Essendon cause.

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Wildlife

to photograph wild animals in the first place you need a good canvas, from 300mm up, you need both light and is stabilized either he or the camera. Without these things you can hardly take home a satisfactory picture.

Wild animals are wary and easily frightened so you have to photograph them from a distance unless you are accustomed to human presence so you must always remember to move in silence, even if you are several people otherwise flee before they can see them. A typical example is the deer, they have very sensitive hearing and sense the approach you since you are away so if want to photograph you have two choices, move quickly and quietly lurking and trying to cross them or wait until it passes close but you need to know the paths that normally fight.

Pay attention to scents, aftershave and deodorant to have strong smells and wild animals and hear them stay away.

Always try to go out on sunny days because the time of the shot must be very fast and if you must manually set the ISO on medium to high in low light so you always have a short time. This arrangement will also allow you to avoid the micro-shake blur due to your focal length lenses that push will be greatly magnified.

when I go into the woods I carry the bare minimum level of equipment, usually only have the camera with a telephoto lens on, a spare battery and a cloth to clean the lens, everything else is only useless encumbrance that in addition to slow the march also risks making unnecessary noise.

A detail often overlooked, which affects more males pee a lot ... maybe being in the woods and having put themselves need to pee freely ... not There is nothing wrong of course but the animals use urine to mark territory and go pee means to signal their intrusion in any animal in passing that he will stay well away from us or path we have embarked.

About paths avoid those beautiful wide and busy, with some birds have little chance to breed wild animals, then choose those small, barely visible because they probably are those used by their deer or wild boar when they move. Look at the ground while walking, the droppings are always good signs in the area to see if there something or not to photograph and observe on the ground even though there is evidence for example of a small excavation because the wild boar can also do some good holes in search of food.

to the photograph and will consider the light I suggest you also set the exposure on the single focal point as the focus, thus avoid photos where the subject may be exposed to evil maybe losing a potentially good shot.

not take along food, which is spread to attract animals, nature photos must be such, you can do in the parks to attract sparrows and robins but in a forest would only make the picture unnatural.

like walking, this is essential, do not go in the woods if you do not like to walk for hours up and down the trails and do not bring back the whining, the nature photos, or do it alone or in a well-knit group that knows how to move and get what he wants. If you carry someone who just wanted to make a picnic in a meadow you'll probably make a snack or complain constantly making you miss the "prey".

Photo hunt is carried out exactly as hunting guns with the difference that the animals instead of killing them unnecessarily you photograph, what I believe far more noble and worthy of note.

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Digital Noise

You have probably heard of digital noise and maybe you have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat it is but maybe not so and therefore we dedicate a few lines.

We start from the film, remember that on the packaging of rolls of film there was a number? For example, Kodak 100, Kodak 200, Kodak 400 and so on? That number represented the ASA, the unit said that the photographer was as sensitive to light that particular film. That issue was crucial because once the film got everything needed to use it or rewind it early if you had to replace it with a different one. What is important to know is that the greater number and that the greater the sensitivity of the film to light, however, while the picture quality decreased with increasing number of ASA. In what sense?

If you take a 100 ASA film and were doing a photo notavate not anything in print, if you take a hand at 800 ASA you could see in print a disturbance, a grain that made the photo "dusty", this was due to the fact that the salts of the film with ASA were very large and high returns that also feature in press.

Here is a photo example

Today the ASA have been replaced by ISO and films from the sensors but not the basic concept change, the higher the sensitivity you bring your sensor will see more and more grain in the picture and this grain is commonly called digital noise. This noise, this noise is due to the fact that as they haul the light that hits the sensor goes to the individual pixels that compose it have increasing difficulty in recognizing the details and then start to knead in an attempt to reconstruct the image been framed.

Each camera behaves differently with the noise and the larger the sensor and it will be less obvious is that the worst results in low light and high ISO will have with the compact and better with the SLR.

I personally think all this criticism of the noise a bit useless, they coexisted peacefully with the grain when the film was and I do not see why today we have to make so many problems, not to mention that if you print your photos and much of that noise that you see on the screen disappears because the press has much lower resolutions and then covers the defects of this type.

My advice is do not go over ISO 400 on the compact if the image quality is the key for you and try to stay under the 1600 ISO with the other.

How I've said many times the photo is a matter of light, either without or using the flash, or forget it because they feel then to be so many problems for the photos to your PC and be dissatisfied is just a waste of time.

Today there are machines that reach ISO 12,000 ... crazy nonsense dictated by marketing and the need to create homes of the myths that encourage customers to change camera looking for that perfect ... that does not exist!

Give me a straight, if you go into a photo shop and the clerk starts to turn around and exit numbers list, you only found the jurisdiction of which aims to turn your money and not to your satisfaction, we remember with Polaroid are people who were masterpieces, so try to work on yourself first because the limits of the body often you will never get there!

One suggestion, the digital noise can be an excellent weapon to your advantage if you like taking pictures in black and white, in this kind of picture it does not bother the grain and in fact becomes an element that gives importance to the next step . If you were there and then come across pictures particularly botched and full of grain and the result you'd like to try to convert it to black and white before you trash, you will see that often obtained the photos convey something.

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What focal length to use for portraits?

depends ... because every focal length brings with it the peculiarities in the portraits that are subject to change.

gendangolare If we use for the portrait, put a 28mm or not, we come very close to the subject to have a close and the lens will distort the facial features tends to round the person. This type of lens is to be organized for portraits of people who are maybe a bit 'in overweight because it would be to further enhance this aspect of the physical person and can be creative when used with such animals to give them a & # 8220; joyful. "

A short telephoto, say the 100mm is usually the ideal focal length for portraits because it produces special geometric deformations in the face of the subject and allow to stand at a distance that allows the person to relax more not feeling too heavily the presence of the target.

You should also keep in mind that the longer the focal length used, the higher you get the separation between subject and background and this, together with bright lenses, allows for a lot of fuzzy beautiful.

About brightness of the lens you have to be a bit 'careful, slow, light type f 2 or less, so make a blurry but you may get more easily out of focus areas on the face of the subject, for example, you have to focus their eyes, and the tip of the nose!

For some this is a virtue, I find it a fault because if I want a portrait that is readable to the entire face but it is a subjective matter exactly as I hate the portraits that are all the rage now with the heads cut off, simply do not like them.

Fundamentals in a portrait is the eyes, those MUST be Focus then when you do this kind of shot they make sure to focus on the point of focus.

The reason? Simply because they are the most expressive part of the face, eyes the people speak, his eyes tell who they are then to those who see the photos.

When making portraits, even people who know each other, it is essential to establish a relationship, talk about, because otherwise the person to relax in front of a car is easy to do the "faces" and be unnatural.

This is one of the reasons why you should choose the long lenses, not to stay on the subject and allowing it to relax.

With children, everything is more complicated, usually move and then agitate the perfect shot is difficult and you should run a lot and then skim the best ones because the risk is very high and rough micro maybe those shots that seemed to have succeeded in reality are not. The best thing is to make them play a bit 'with the camera, let him review some pictures so you get used to that gun that's been focusing on him and not be intimidated otherwise you will have few opportunities to make some candid shots because the kids or hide or to get started "posing".

Beware also the lights, the portraits are key to highlight the details or hide them, if for example you have before you a young girl to avoid the gray areas and ensure that the light is soft, never a direct flash because it would accentuate the imperfections of the skin. Conversely, if the person is elderly and has many wrinkles and want to enhance this particular to give it much importance then you have to work on the shadows to bring out the grooves on the face data from wrinkles.

Even the camera angle is important, a thin person has no problem of double chin and you can pick any in the filming from the bottom up but if a person a bit 'in How about meat no doubt look down would accentuate the double chin! Hence for such people will be preferred portraits made by a raised dot, like standing on a stool, so that the subject raise head slightly, making the small imperfections less noticeable.

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Portraits Black & white or color? Flash flash

The choice is not easy, the two types of pictures have very different purposes and touch on different sensitivities and must be evaluated from time to time depending not only on what we take but also what we want to convey.
First things first: in what format you save the images? RAW or JPEG?
's not a demand made, if in fact you save pictures in RAW format you can always change it in any way because then the PC will act as the negative of old films, but if it saved in jpeg settings you choose in the car indelible mark in the photo.
What do I mean by that?
Very simple, if you decide to shoot in black and white directly from the camera using the jpeg format as you can not think about it and then convert the color while the other can always be done using the pc! This means that if you are not absolutely sure about the color choice when you shoot then it is better that you take the picture or in raw or colored because then you always have time to change it to black and white later.
This is because the jpeg format only saves the selected information during shooting and if you choose black and white, the car simply will not save the color information.
said that you must still decide how to express your photo chromatic, much depends on your sensitivity and since, I eg I follow my mood.
I personally think the black and white way of expressing a very strong net and use it when I want to convey a feeling states, but not easy. With black and white need to create strong contrasts light and dark, there must be intermediate grays and this is to edit your photos in a very heavy impact with regard to the observer.
Try watching these two photos:

Notice diverge? How to speak in a different way? The choice of which one is better is subjective and this is a normal picture, not studied, one of many shots taken during a family party and simply saved in raw and converted to black and white as an example.
and Imagine how it might affect the choice between black and white or color in a photo studio or otherwise prepared for everything good about the study of light that is needed.
The choice is yours, my advice is to do many tests as usual to learn to think in both color and black and white, this will allow you to make the right choice already being shot without going through the PC with Safety of getting what you had in mind from the outset.

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yes or no?

The photographic world is divided on whether to always use the flash but personally I find it a pointless diatribe, the flash should be used if needed as long as you know and know how to "tame".
should first be admitted without hesitation that a photograph taken with only the light environment is more pleasant and harmonious a shot with the help of flash but there are situations where you can not do without and still there are tricks to make it soft lightning.
The classic case in which a flash in the correct way is the difference is the picture, this kind of photography in a strong, direct light will highlight the hard features of the subject because it will create light and shade of very dark shadows may give the subject's face looks very smooth. In such a situation, we must first see that we have flash, if that fixed on the camera or an external one.


FIXED FLASH: the little flash mounted on the machine, but has a reduced power for "normal" situation and also more than adequate for portraits can be used with satisfaction as long as you use the devices. Almost all machines have a function that is used to adjust the intensity of the small flash drive that usually varies in a scale ranging from -2 to +2, this is very useful because it allows us to measure out the light in an appropriate manner . If our subject is a few meters from us it will be useless and harmful shot him too powerful a flash as if the distance is greater, then we will agree to raise the intensity. Unfortunately there are no precise data, depends on the flash and his power then I recommend to experiment by placing a subject at a fixed distance and take pictures only going to intervene on the power of flash to get an idea of \u200b\u200bhow and what changes the final result.
A trick to soften the light and make the flash less obtrusive is to put flash in front of a piece of parchment paper or more pieces until the desired intensity, is a very homely but functional and cheap, remember to use only baking paper and to not touch it during or immediately after the flash because the flash is very hot!
Pay attention to the shade of your goal, because the flash integrated very low compared to the body you risk seeing a shadow in the lower part of the shot ... it is the hood!


EXTERNAL FLASH: This type of flash is mounted on the slide on most cameras except the compact pocket and offers significant benefits. There are many types and prices vary in power and jointed It ranges from the cheapest that can only be raised or lowered on the vertical axis to reach those that can rotate on the horizontal axis and remotely controlled from the machine . Prices vary greatly, you can find flash from 150 € up to those of more than 600 ... it all depends on what you need of course.
To begin it well enough and you will see a statement that the results will be very different from those of the integrated flash.
If you are at home the external flash has the great advantage that it can be pointed at the ceiling or to a side wall.
Why do it? Just to try to recreate a natural atmosphere in which the subject will not be overwhelmed by the light directly, but it's come back, through walls, and behind him giving more photogenic to shoot. This arrangement also allows the determination of the shadows so soft and selective, for example, if the person has an imperfection on the left side of the face I'm not going to illuminate the but I'll leave it in the shadow stressing other parts of the face or at least focusing the light on the good side.
addition to the flash point sideways or upwards, you can also buy speakers to ask yourself before, are nothing more than white or colored caps that are used to make more diffused light and soft, ideal for portraits or macro shots however, close and cheap, that will not hurt.
I personally think the flash last resort, for use when the picture must be taken to the home you can afford and do not blur because the situation does not repeat itself but is an option to not discard a priori by party taken. Everyone loves you always shoot light environment and this has sparked a race to the high sensitivity that is not only absurd it is unnecessary for the quality of the shot. Remember that fact as they go up with the ISO to clean the picture will be affected while using a flash you shoot at low iso using a very short time to freeze the moment.
I found myself photographed on stage sometimes, I also have chosen not to use the flash because the spotlight, however, allows you to make a quick shot, but at what price? Sacrificing the cleaning of the shot and thus precluding the possibility of crop and edit it later so I always chose to use the flash with the appropriate Speaker looking for photos to make less noise but not to bring home the result of better quality.
This aspect should be considered, if you find that the flash bothers those around us we have to turn it off and, if necessary, store your camera, the photographer is not entitled to disturb others to satisfy his passion, always remember that if you want people to appreciate what you do.

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Machinery maintenance and photographic lenses

Here's an interesting topic: how to clean the camera body and lenses in particular?
may seem trivial, but I've seen around most senseless gestures so it's best if I spend two words about it.
First off, the cleaning of the body . You do not need much, it is best to use cloth ones that are also used to clean glasses or at least a soft lint-free cloth or waste, I will spray on one of those products which are also used to clean PCs and plastics in general, are usually found in spray products are cheap and are made of silicone rubber parts that preserve and polish the plastic.
Eye screens, will scratch easily, worry immediately put on a protective film, such as those used for mobile phones, low cost and good performance.
careful not to use water unless your machine is not tropical, you may find yourself a nice paperweight in his hands, a bit expensive to be honest!
If the outside of the SLR more compact machines and there are big problems is very different to the discourse concerning the interior of the SLR , everything is very delicate so careful, no hurry and appropriate tools. ;
The number one enemy of the camera is dust, not only when you change the lens but with only one of, if not tropical, you'll always get a plunger effect when you go back and forth with the zoom that cause the ' Entry of dust in the camera body. Usually you need not worry unless the powder starts to spoil pictures are going to settle on the sensor or the mirror focus, where, however, would only bother leaving intact the picture.
To clean the inside of the camera you have to use compressed air, do not skimp on the price! Those that contain gases that are cheap, because of the cooling determined from the air coming out, can literally freeze the sensor or mirror irreparably damaged. So be careful, keep a straight cylinder of compressed air in the first place and made some brief sprinkles out of the body before and always short air jets to reduce the risk of being involved in accidents.
Cleaning the sensor is a simple but very sensitive, every car has a procedure in the menu that allows access to the sensor for cleaning. Once activated this process looking at the machine from the entrance optics (which you removed) you will see the sensor, you have to buy the spatulas to clean it the right size appropriate for your sensor and use them to get over the cleaning liquid that is sold together with them. NOT use another method, the sensor is fragile and breaks easily if you are not sure you can always contact the service center or a friend that will show you the most practical how and what to do.
lenses ... Rule number one: never breathe on it! Many do it to remove a mark but maybe our breath also contains saliva, which is corrosive, but will never break the glass door off the anti-glare coating that is on without your knowledge. Used clothes such as those for eyeglass lenses and only suitable liquids, are cheap but the lens will thank you forever for the attention he devotes to it. NOT ever use paper towels, they create micro scratches on the lens that you do not see with the naked eye but then, in particular lighting conditions, reflections are going to create bad picture.
Remember to always clean the machine if you go to the beach or surrounding areas, though it seems there always is deposited a layer of rock salt due to salt water in the area or even if there is sand on the beach and both things are very dangerous for your camera. The saltiness in fact affect the tires and the glass and the sand is likely to enter the camera body when changing lenses, a single grain of sand, if it ends in the shutter mechanism destroys it so be careful not to underestimate the danger.
All this talk does not make you paranoid, but aware and careful with how you handle your instrument that is so nice and heavy and solid but has a fragile soul, almost crystal and kept it a few times but for good, without improvisation.

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Output Level

few days ago it happened to the opportunity to join a group of amateurs and go for a walk to grade camera. The weather was not the best, luckily it was sunny but a cold wind blowing at 30 km \\ h sand that constantly raised and splashes of sea water, but there was fun and everyone is able to take home some shots.
I stressed the weather because very often they can to deter people from coming out to take pictures and my advice is do not give up, certainly not to risk pneumonia for a photo but if you can take the camera and outputs.
For example, thanks to the wind, I could make shots like this:

The Seagull was virtually immobile, supported by the wind and I had the opportunity dovergli to photograph without running back with the focus, which is quite rare with the birds in flight.

Another step is this:

The picture itself is not anything special but the sea swell together with the wind gave a beautiful sight with these waves that beat upon the sandy beach.

must then interpret the imagination what the landscape offers us a shot like this for example:

Cabbages, sucks! Horizon wrong because I was bent over the cold landscape rather insignificant ... well, a snap to trash but I thought so:

not obtained a work of art but I think I pulled something different, more expressive.

This is not a cause for action to the PC, it's just a demonstration of what can change a shot if he has the patience to interpret it. In this case I just took the shot in black and white and cropped the photo and adjusted the horizon, I did not add items, I have not touched what nature has put before me, and I think this is the insurmountable limit that we have to ask.

On the beach I met a wooden hut, a beautiful structure:

and I decided to take it with a soft goal to give her a light tone and inside I was lying and then I took this:

tasteless but also a picture that I personally like it because I love the geometry of buildings.

As you can see even a simple walk on the beach can give you special moments besides being able to become an occasion of aggregation or even just for fun, do not give up just because it's cold!

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Some examples of different exposures

In a previous posting I talked about how you can set the camera to make regarding the exposure reading. Yesterday I went to a church to play a bit and show you how the different exposure setting produces different results with the same subject.
First picture:

In this shot the approach was based on the reading of light around the frame and the camera has tried to make it readable by both parties in shade than those with light, the result was a general clearing that has made so read the outer sides of the photos were very dark but has also made the white center point.
Second photo:

In this second picture, the only change was to select the spot of light reading, and then focus on the single frame which was also to brighten. The result is that you can see the dove of the window but the rest of the picture is very dark place.


How could you see the same picture, in which the lighting conditions do not change, it may be totally different if you select a different mode of reading exposure. The important thing is that you learn to know how your machine reasoning in relation to the light to go back to select in advance the correct mode and this happens only through experience and testing, can not be learned in two minutes.
The two photos that I put as an example could be both correct depending on what I wanted to make visible the entire time by sacrificing the retail center or vice versa, so it's never about right or wrong, but exposure of subjective choice of point interest, shared or not.
The courses, however, make the white head "shot" are mistakes as well as areas too dark, and then people lose time in the forum to say that the lights are burned and unreadable shadows ... but if it's your choice? None other than you know what you want to capture attention and then to the judgments that others will make you feel incapable as they could when they are not like that.
Always remember that you only judge of your photos yourself, you have to like the result and you have to be critical in this regard, if a shot came as he had thought then it is correct, otherwise not. Unfortunately
Today we share the photos with the world and this puts us in danger because it may come as a compliment in the same way they can get heavy criticism that can also pass the desire to photograph. Do not make that mistake, a critical, if construction must be accepted because there is always something to learn, a critical time just to give an aesthetic judgments but is totally irrelevant and if someone tells you that the photo does not like ... you shrug and Instead tell him that you send so much.

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The importance of the press and how to spend

Let me give you some advice: print pictures as possible and preferably at least in sizes that go from 13x18 up.

The reason? Simple, the hd dvd and they break, they become unreadable and can, in one shot clear a lifetime of memories.

Nothing is more volatile and uncertain of digital photos just a nothing and goodbye and then what? First, keep redundant archives. What does it mean? You need to have your photo in at least four places if you want to keep in digital format the hard disk of the PC, an external hard drive to be connected only long enough to transfer data, but dvd not be those of two money and, as a last form of rescue, a site like Flickr where to upload to your maximum resolution photos.

We see the negative and positive sides of the various types of storage file:

- HARD DISK: they offer the advantage of relatively low cost compared to current capacity and the first mistake you could make would be to take a very large, because it would be a mistake? If it breaks you lose a large amount of data, but if I use two smaller ones already saved 50% files and this is also true for memory cards for your cameras, do not be stingy, because the merchandise is as good as paid! Always choose HD as they are ultra fast speed, those from 5400 are fine, those from 7000-10000 rpm are so much faster in warm and save the data but are subject to more frequent breaks.

- DVD: these supports have a flaw, are made of organic materials , resins and derivatives oil, what this means? In practice, when you burn the DVD the laser heats up and triggers an irreversible process of deterioration of the medium itself, damage determined by the formation of mold in the DVD that, over the years make less and less readable the same until it become unusable. The wake-up call in this regard is the color, the DVDs (and CDs) when they start to golden-coppery patina present on the surface, you are saying hello hello. There are media best treated with materials such as gold and silver which have a high anti-bacterial effect and can retain data for a very long time, obviously cost more, but I think that memories do not have money. Always remember that once burned DVDs should be kept in strict black boxes in a cool dry place if you want to prolong their life, every time you go to read because the laser will heat the media again favoring the deterioration of the DVD.

- STORAGE ON-LINE: Beware of free services, today there are and tomorrow they can say goodbye without notice and without that you can protect yourself, the better to choose a payment, but be sure contract that your photos will not be lost overnight. What is the problem? Need an internet network to upload and download files-if you do not have a decent ADSL network it can become frustrating if you make lots of photos.

The best thing I can do is advise you to print your images, or at least the most important ones that you feel better and do not do it by yourself at home, as well as being anti-economic and pigments home printers have a lifespan of 5-6 years, then because they turn shades of light and you end up with photos that will be all green or yellow. Rely on services available network, using different inks and photo paper seriously and are a guarantee for the duration of the photos. At press time you can choose a glossy or matte form, in my opinion is better than matte, glossy paper gives greater effect at first but easily gets dirty with fingerprints already and still produces reflections that can be annoying.

Remember that there is nothing more beautiful than the album leaf paper, a monitor is sterile, is a romantic album, gives a sense of family, home, private. Photography is also this, who needs to create excitement but also the viewer clicks a photo album and well cared for is always a pleasure to browse.

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How

Photography is an expensive hobby, no denying though much depends on the degree of passion that you take and how much you want to improve the shots.
The best method is to start gradually, starting with the compact and then climbing gradually that you feel limited by the half but careful not to fall into the trap of marketing wants you to believe that both the camera to take pictures better than others models. Always remember that you are taking, the machine is only a tool, and many world-famous photographers also used machines disposable at the time of the film, however, pulling out of the masterpieces. Learn then to squeeze the full potential of what you have in your hands. A compact will allow you to familiarize yourself with the shots, getting your eye and get used to thinking as a photographer, to look beyond the simple reality looking particularly challenging in the chaos we see daily. The machines are obviously limitations related to the type of user they are born, you can never do as demanding photo shoots weddings with a compact and you can not get the blurred views. Here, when feel the need to engage yourself in something that your machine, its features does not allow you to do, then then it's time to move up a step. Probably this way of thinking will seem more expensive than buying directly from a low-end SLR but it is not. First of all sizes and weights, is a compact in your pocket or purse, do not you realize it but at the right time here that materializes and enables you to take home a memory, a camera heavy, cluttered and often People go out without losing maybe some good photo opportunities. The camera then it is only the starting point with its supplied lens enough to get started but offers little more than a good compact that equips then you must also put in mind that if you want good results right away or almost now thinking of buying a decent lens that would cost as much as the body that you have purchased. And if you discover that is not for you? So you want to take pictures but without commitment? Just to give you memories that will print even then maybe not? A camera is made for printing photos and in a format that should start from a minimum of 20x15 and being at the bottom of this magnitude means to have thrown away the money because even a cell phone can take pictures printed at 10x15 you see ... you if it's worth it ...
If you take a bridge, those big car with non-interchangeable lens that covers focal lengths, but Dick could live happily and make beautiful pictures for a lifetime, a camera to cover the same focal lengths in a decent level of quality needs at least three zoom lenses with related costs and overall dimensions. I have light when I go behind the camera body with zoom and on one trip with 2.5 kg in the shoulder, if I go out discreetly behind the camera bag and we are about 5 pounds of the stuff, then I want to have it all behind when I go out with the bag and there I am on almost 9 pounds of weight ... not really a feather, consider flying if you have the desire to move it or not.

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LITTLE CHANGE OR OTHER Taster? MIXED


this little illustration comes from the concept of a character of a publishing project, the villain of the first. EBBASTA!

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ALESSIO

Studies at a leading hub for nerds!

Old Wooden Beer Barrels

What is the equivalent of the objectives

Now read the values \u200b\u200breported on the objectives it is almost a business, especially for those who are not kept informed during the transition from film to digital.

To explain these difficulties we must put an introduction and explain the concept of equivalence is often mentioned in relation to photographic lenses.

First you must place the meter, the unit of reference for the focal lengths of camera lenses which for us is the data that are relative to the field that moves a lens on 35mm film, the Kodak film classic that is. Complicated?

In practice we take for example a 50mm lens in the photo that is considered "normal" because it roughly mimics the shot that we see in plays to the naked eye and photographic film. From now on this will be the reference for the 50mm wide field of view.

Today, however, the film no longer exists, using sensors and are of many different sizes, carry an explanatory chart that I posted to understand the magnitude of the sensors over film:

Here we summarize the sizes in mm:

Sensor Type	Width	Height	Format
1 / 3, 6 "	4mm	3mm	4 / 3
1 / 3, 2"	4.536 mm	3,416mm	4/3
1/3”	4,8mm	3,6mm	4/3
1/2,7"	5,371mm	4,035mm	4/3
1/2,5"	5,76mm	4,29mm	4/3
1/2"	6,4mm	4,8mm	4/3
1/8"	7,167mm	5,319mm	4/3
1/1,7"	7,6mm	5,7mm	4/3
2/3”	8,8mm	6,6mm	4/3
1"	12,8mm	9,6mm	4/3
4/3"	18mm	13,5mm	4/3
Canon APS-C	22,2mm	14,8mm	3/2
Nikon DX - Sony APS-C	23,7mm	15,7mm	3/2
Canon APS-H	28,7mm	19,1mm	3/2
35mm Film / Full Frame	36mm	24mm	3 / 2

Another picture on the fly to understand the magnitude of the different sensors:

And yet, to try to simplify the discussion:

In the picture above the comparison between the lens focal reflex on 35mm film, with the corners of the field in gray in the image on the left column. In the right column the result of multiplication of the same lenses, mounted on a DSLR with 1.5 multiplication factor X. (documentation Tamron

What about changing the size of the sensor? Simple, the angle of which is to be structured and how change has an impact on this objective? Simple, every company has continued to write on them the actual mm but not the same as they would have with the film have created so much confusion.

practical example, I use Olympus and the Olympus sensor is half the size of photographic film, it follows that the multiplication factor (a concept I will explain better) to apply to the number written on the target is 2. In practice, reading the specs of a lens if I can find written Olympus 12-60mm (zoom) X 2 will have to increase those numbers to know the focal length of the lens than the analog film to finally reach a 24-120mm equivalent coverage.

I know, now is a mess but once you understand the mechanism and everything will be easy to make a choice J , because each brand has its own multiplier!

All this has brought an incredible chaos because a novice user would expect that if a law is and what is number one without having to just get a deal but it is unfortunately.

returned to make a practical example, assume that we want to photograph a bird in hand and that we have a film camera with a 400mm lens and an Olympus digital, on the latter, to get the same shot will be enough to mount a 200mm lens, because as said before the lens becomes a 400mm under the 2X multiplier. What does this mean? Simply that if the objective of the analogue machine weighs 1kg and we say it is 40cm long and weigh that Olympus will be half the size easier to handle.

The only machines that do not need multiplications of these are full frame, so named because they have a sensor as large as the old film camera, all the other mountain smaller sensors and instead must act accordingly with their number multiplication.

all at first glance may seem a bit complicated and certainly can be confusing but do not worry, life intervenes to complicate the concept of depth of field ... but that'll do another intervention J