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objective, and practical considerations such

In a previous speech I talked about the brightness of the objectives and the F number that indicates we are using the diaphragm. To summarize in a few words f indicates the aperture, the smaller the number, and more light will pass by allowing a gap between the foreground and background.

Here are some shots that I did and I think that explains everything better than a thousand words, the order of the aperture used is as follows: f2-f4-f5.6-f8-f11-f16-f22. As you will notice that the number will grow to change the image, what is said is that as the number f also increases the exposure time because less light passing through the goal we must increase the time of installation, then you must use a tripod if available light is low.

f2

f4

f5.6

f8

f11

f16

f22

As you can see the blur varies greatly between a light and a dark lens, be aware that targets low-end usually start from f3.5-f4 and then you can understand that with these lenses can do many things but not, for example portraits that highlight the face and not the rest unless you work in the studio with the appropriate backgrounds. The downside is that the bright lenses are expensive and therefore should be evaluated well spending in relation to the future use. Another issue to consider is that the lower the f-number the greater the chance to miss the focus, instead of the flower if there was a face with f2 I can focus the eye lashes and do not degrade the picture, so to speak .

Another thing to keep in mind is that most of the objectives to make the most of f5.6 in the sense that this value the lens aperture can resolve details as to the best values \u200b\u200blower or higher tends to lose a bit of punch, but this is a general discussion because there are lenses that do not suffer from this problem like the one I used for these shots.

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Computer programs and ... essential?

With film there was no escape, the photographer was like a sniper, a stroke center, or wasting the film at his disposal. Today the photographers are gunners, shooting hundreds of shots as the memory cards are nice and roomy in the crowd something good always jumps out. Apart from the perverse logic of consumerism that is the basis of this reasoning is a fact that today the photographers are no longer such, today we have "Clickomania", people who repeatedly pressed the shutter button and then throw the PC to improve everything.
not get me wrong, the computer certainly has the opportunity to make even more beautiful a good photo but it sure can not make something beautiful indecent for example the frame.
I think the photo should be treated as a darkroom, you can make changes on contrasts, on saturation, but little more. But today there are many programs for editing photos, from free ones to those very expensive and powerful, but we need?
I PhotoShop, Photo by definition the program but do not ever open, why?
Simply because the thousands of transactions I can perform more work by graphic photographs.
but I use the elementary complete software package that is part of Windows Live can be downloaded from here: http://explore.live.com/windows-live-essentials?os=other does it offer? Everything you need for a photographer today and for free, something that never hurts. This program allows you to go to act on the lights, the shadows, crop and straighten a photo in addition to many other features but not in use. For Apple users but there is iPhoto, a program similar to that offered by Microsoft and that in itself is enough to make corrections ethically right of the photo.
One thing must be said, if you spend more time to rework your shots than they used to do it ... then you need to revise the way you work because you are weak-side photo.
Let me explain.
If you pay attention during shooting in ' the best frame the subject, if the exposure and be careful if you have the mastery of your camera you can take your memory card and send to print the photos without going through the PC.
I have gained experience with the expensive film at that time and I guarantee you that the fact of finding themselves after a bad photo shoot was a great motivator for improvement. Today I suggest you do the same thing to those who want to learn how to photograph, take your camera, put into a small memory, which contains 100 pictures, then sent out to photograph and print photos without regard to the PC.
I think is the best way to learn to shoot by snipers and not by machine-gun.

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Image Stabiliser

What is the stabilizer image? The question may seem trivial but in fact many believe that the stabilizer in some way to prevent blurring due to subject centered and instead just goes to prevent small fluctuations due to the hand of those who are photographing.

There are two types of image stabilizer, or on the lens or camera body, which is better between the two?

I personally think that at the final result is equivalent, but I find the fact of having the image stabilizer in the camera body will bring many benefits, let's see some. A body-stabilized makes any stabilized lens you mount on the lens and allows you to have lighter and less expensive than those which incorporate the stabilizer. For example, if you buy a Canon or Nikon and go see their telephoto lenses you'll find that on average larger, more expensive and heavier than the equivalent focal length covered by such optical Sony, Olympus or Pentax mount because the latter makes the image stabilizer in the body.

The stabilizer has benefits in two cases, the first is whether we are using telephoto lenses with which even small fluctuations are amplified in our hand and the second when we photograph low light because the stabilizer is designed to increase the shutter speed without needing to go with the iso.

Surely you can not live without stabilizer, but also because it lacks a convenience that allows you to take home a lot more photos and many more situations?

The downside of this feature is the battery consumption that rises enough so it is better to switch off when not in use, there is usually a menu or a button dedicated to this. Please note that with the wide-angle lens in good light your shutter speed should be such to render unnecessary the stabilizer and then you can keep it off.

One thing to remember is to always turn it off if you use a tripod! Yes, because if the stabilizer is useful in your hand can do the exact opposite on a stable, why? Simply because the gyro stabilizer move thousands of times per second and if built on a solid base of generated micro moved that it can not compensate for their Essendon cause.