I know I'm boring and I said, photography is light and we must learn to learn to photograph primarily to check the light. The exposure in this process Control is key, she knew next to a picture displayed when one of the areas of light and shadow, there are those of the peaks "boring", yes, because even before we just used all'esposimetro cover to see if the shot is well balanced in the light or not.
How to adjust the exposure? Question from a million euro which is not easy to answer because it depends on the stage and type of photos we are taking a landscape is quite different from a picture, for example, and the position of the sun, the incidence of light, shadows, etc. are factors that the photographer has to assess on the spot. The cameras help us in assessing the exposure, with the differences between brand and brand but broadly reading exposure occurs as follows:
-up throughout the frame (read esp or zonal)
-central part of the frame (center-weighted)
-up a small part of the frame (spot)
Now, the first type of display, one that assesses the lights and shadows on all photography is particularly suited for photos of landscapes because it allows you to save a little bit throughout the frame, trying to avoid extremes of light.
The second type, the center-weighted average is appropriate, however, when the subject that interests us is a part of the frame and we can afford to give less importance to the rest without sacrificing the entire frame.
Exposure Spot currency rather light in a very small part of the picture and is suitable in lighting or in portraits, for example because we want the light hitting the face is best viewed at the cost of everything else, plus something that might be nice going for a portrait to emphasize the importance of the subject. Personally
work almost exclusively with the center-weighted and spot, I like having control of the shot and I do not like to be the machine to decide what is important or not, but each has its own way so the feeling is should go out and do tests to find the right methodology.
An experiment you can do is the following, take a puppet and put on the table, put it behind a light source, say, a lamp or a window, then grab the camera and stand in front of the doll and shoot three shots, with three different modes of display reading taking in center of your puppet. You will see that depending on the type of exposure chosen photos will be very different and you will understand how and what is important to learn to get used to the exposure to bring home shots. An example that I can make is that linked to photos of birds in flight, for example if you photograph a seagull will be much easier than taking you find a dark figure on a light background because the light comes from above the bird and the machine tries to properly expose the sky, if you select this mode zonal or weighted. If you had chosen the spot metering and you were able to frame the center of the picture the seagull instead you could get the details of the bird instead of a black figure.
This is an example of a wrong step:
and this is a decent photo:
From these two shots you can understand how important it is to know how our car thinks about the show and this comes with practice because every machine uses its own algorithms to read and has its own tolerances, then look for situations of "extreme" the whip to put the machine to understand it.
Then there may be uses "creative" exposure as in this case:
Here the gull was totally against the light, if I had used the spot metering, however, I would get a dark spots but I also lost the sunset behind him so I opted for a center-weighted reading to try to save goat and cabbage and bring home one click "set" through the use of exposure.
Then the result can like it or not, of course :-) in photography everything is subjective!
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